Wall Damage from Wall and Window Leaks

On many low rise condo buildings, and most homes, the exterior walls to the second or third floors are constructed using wood framing. I use to be a big fan of wood framing as it offers much better insulation value. The problem with wood framing in exterior walls is the potential for water intrusion into the walls – a HUGE problem for your home or building. One of the big things our company constantly deals with in Florida, is water intrusion into a building, and it can come in buckets (pun intended!) through the roof, exterior wall finishes (such as stucco, siding, etc.) and windows (now you see the connection!).

It is VERY difficult for the average home owner to notice the ‘signs’ of water intrusion until it is too late. Usually, by the time the ‘signs’ appear, there is extensive damage. In a wood frame wall, every component that makes up the inside of the wall – wood wall studs, wood plywood sheathing, sheetrock, insulation – are all absorbent materials, so they HOLD the moisture in place thereby accelerating deterioration. Moisture in building materials can quickly destroy the structural integrity and nurture mold and insect infestation. Repairs for a home start at several thou$ands and can go into tens-of-thousands in very quickly. If you are a condo association, let me put it this way: one of our clients is a very small COA in Boca – 42 units – that we are making these exact repairs (framing, windows, roof, etc.). This association’s cost so far is over $200,000.00 and we are not close to being finished. We have only made absolutely necessary repairs; of the units we have made repairs to, the cost has ranged from $7,000 to $20,000 per condo unit. As I said, it’s hard to find the telltale ‘signs’ for anyone, but for a COA, its especially problematic because the association is having to rely on uninformed condo owners, and worse, renters, to tell you they have a problem.

Window Leak

It is easy to check if the bottom track was installed properly. Remove the sliding window, then take out the ‘frame sill track’ that is located under the sliding window and runs the entire length of the frame. The fasteners/screws will then be exposed. Take out one or two and see if the holes were back-caulked. If not, fix it yourself. Remove all the screws in the bottom track; fill the cavity with a quality caulk or seam sealer, then put the screws back in. When the screw is 1/8” out from being secured to the frame, add a dab of caulk under the head for good measure, and finish tightening. It is also a good idea to add some sealer to the corners and any seams in the frame you can detect. Then wipe off all excess and put the window back together again.

WALLS:
This one can be hard for the layman to understand – how water infiltration can occur thru the outside skin of the building envelope. But it happens much more often than you realize. One first has to understand that water is VERY intrusive. And the possible points of intrusion are many! Any protrusion along the stucco wall that impeds water run-off is a prime candidate to eventually create an opening for water intrusion: windows (if they stick out), window sills, stucco bands, ornamental designs, etc., are all candidates. And barely visible cracks in the stucco that can be created from building settlement are obviously points for water to seep in. Once the water gets behind the stucco, it makes contact with the building substrate (usually plywood) – as I said these are absorbent materials, like a sponge, and when they get wet they wick the moisture throughout (drywall can wick water up to 30”).

Roof Leak - Wall Damage

SIGNS:
For most of these telltale signs to show up, please keep in mind that there has to be enough excess water inside your wall that it is wicking out to the dry side (or in some extreme cases, running out). These signs can be water stains on the ceiling, sheetrock tape joints that have separated, the top of the baseboard has separated from the sheetrock leaving a crack, the sheetrock side ‘return’ to the windows at the bottom is separating from the window sill or there is light mold on the sheetrock in this area, hairline cracks in the outside stucco (often times near an impediment to water runoff such as window sills, stucco bands and other protruding trim).

I recently had one customer who had none of these signs, but by simple good fortune they found they had a serious problem – they inadvertently rubbed their hand against the wall and their wall was so wet inside that that the paint pealed right off the sheetrock. They cut a hole in the sheetrock and found the wall studs to be rotted half way thru. In another project we were working on, I have seen an entire wall, from corner to corner, not have one single wall stud that was not COMPLETELY rotted through. The only thing holding up the roof was the stucco and the side adjoining wall.

If you think you may have water intrusion into your wall, call someone. If you are a condo owner, call your association’s property manager or someone on the board. If you’re a homeowner, call a contractor who specializes in this kind of work. Get someone who is an expert. A lot of contractors will say they can fix water intrusion problems, but unless they have dealt with solving these problems for years, they do not know all the intricacies involved. And as always, with any contractor you hire, call their references.

Hurricane shutters are the most economical, therefore the most popular solution chosen by homeowners. However, hurricane impact windows and doors are also very popular because of the added benefits of convenience, security enhancement, better energy efficiency, sound proofing and its attractiveness over shutters. The least expensive system is plywood or panels; these offer great protection, but take a great deal of time to install.

Your considerations: Cost, appearance, and convenience (this one is often under estimated).

First, understand what it is your protecting: it’s not just the shards of glass from the broken window that are dangerous – having your roof blown off will really get your attention. During a hurricane, the strong wind that blows over your home creates a ‘lift’ effect on your roof. If a window or door opening is blown open during the storm, this creates an additional upward ‘push’ on the roof, thus doubling or tripling the lifting effect. This is how roofs are blown off.

Here are the vitals on your choices for hurricane window protection for your home.

Myth Buster- Window Film & a little info on Impact Windows:

Window film can reduce the sun’s damaging rays into your home and it is promoted to be a theft deterrent. It may also very well reduce the chance for shards of glass to go flying through your home in the event of a hurricane, but do you really think slapping a thin piece of film on your existing windows is going to keep your roof on in the event of a hurricane? By comparison, impact windows are almost three times as thick as regular window glass. Hurricane windows are made up of two layers of glass and sandwiched between these layers of glass is a strong tear resistant interlayer (film) that keeps the glass together in the event it is broken. They are much like the windshield of automobiles.

A key factor in the strength of impact windows is how the glass & interlayer are VERY securely attached to a reinforced frame (both mechanically and thru the use of industrial adhesives) so the impact glass does NOT detached even under extreme pressure. The goal is to establish hurricane window protection for all openings (whether one does this through the use of hurricane shutters or impact windows, or a combination of the two) and keep the openings sealed so as to not cause a change in pressure inside the home thus blowing off the roof. The idea of putting hurricane window film on a regular window with its lightweight frame and expecting it to even remotely resemble a Miami-Dade approved impact window is ridiculous. Yes, it would be better than nothing, but your money would be better spent on plywood.

Plywood Shutters ($2 – $4 / sq. ft.):

A popular and effective choice, installing plywood shutters to fit snugly inside the window or door frame is an efficient and affordable option for homeowners. These shutters were effective even in the highest winds of Hurricane Andrew, and are relatively easy to install. If you are going to use this method, the plywood needs to be 5/8” to 3/4” thick, and since it takes a lot of time to prepare, it should be cut to size way before we have a storm bearing down on us.

Positives:

Most inexpensive of all hurricane protective systems
Strong and can provide excellent protection

Negatives:

Require storage, but can be stacked
Heavy and difficult to handle, hanging may require more than one person
Require the most time to install
Not a safe option for 2 story homes

Storm Prep: 20 – 25 minutes per window (if pre-cut); 5 to 8 hours for an average home

Storm panel hurricane shutters ($5 – $8 / sq. ft.):

Another popular and effective choice, these hurricane shutters are typically steel or aluminum corrugated panels that attach to the walls around windows and doors. There are several mounting methods using either pre-mounted tracks and bolts or just bolts.

Positives:

Most inexpensive of the ‘permanent’ hurricane shutter systems

Strong and can provide excellent protection

Can be installed by a handy DIY.

Negatives:

Require storage, but can be stacked

Can be heavy and difficult to handle, hanging may require more than one person

Time consuming to – other than plywood, this system requires the second most time to install

Have sharp edges – can be dangerous

Not a convenient option for 2 story homes

Storm Prep: 15 – 20 minutes per window; 4 to 6 hours for an average home

Accordion Hurricane Shutters ($15 – $18 / sq. ft.):

Accordion hurricane shutters are attached directly to your home at the window or door opening, folded up when they are not in use and easily unfolded, accordion-style when you need to cover and protect the opening during a storm.

Positives:

Easily deployable by one person when they are needed.

Permanently attached next to the window, don’t require storage.

Some can be locked and may be used as a theft deterrent.

Negatives:

Typically bulky and not attractive. Seriously consider aesthetics before purchasing these.

They have more mechanical parts, so may require more maintenance than other devices.

Storm Prep: 30 minutes for an entire home

Colonial and Bahama Hurricane Shutters ($18 – $28 / sq. ft.):

These are louvered hurricane shutters that attach directly to the wall beside or above the windows.

Positives:

Permanently attached next to, or above the window, don’t require storage.

Easily deployable by one person when they are needed.

Since they are decorative they can beautify the home as well as protect it.

Negatives:

Cannot be used as hurricane protection for doors, so must be combined with another system.

Designs and style may limit their use.

Storm Prep: 30 minutes to an hour for an entire home

Roll-Down Hurricane Shutters ($35 – $55 / sq. ft.):

These hurricane shutters attach permanently above the window in an enclosed box when they are not in use and roll down, either manually with a hand crank or electronically by motor, when you need them.

Positives:

Permanently attached next to, or above the window, don’t require storage.

Easily deployable by one person when they are needed.

Since they can be locked, they make an excellent theft deterrent

Negatives:

One of the most expensive systems.

Motor driven systems require a battery backup so they can be operated during power outages.

Storm Prep: Minimal, easiest of the hurricane shutter systems

Impact Windows ($40 – $55+ / sq. ft.):

Hurricane impact windows can withstand hurricane debris and completely eliminate the need for hurricane shutters. It costs more to retrofit an existing home, but is most cost effective if a homeowner is considering replacing old windows anyway. This is the most value added of the hurricane window protection systems, since impact windows also improve energy efficiency, are an excellent theft deterrent, provide sound deadening from outside noises, as well as give your home hurricane window protection in the event of a storm. Further, adding new impact windows is likely to increase the value of your home, more so than with any of the other hurricane protective systems.

Positives:

Eliminates the need for hurricane shutters

Great for people with second homes since the home is hurricane ready all the time.

Excellent theft deterrent, nearly impossible to break thru the glass to gain entry.

Added value of sound deadening and energy efficiency over regular windows.

Negatives:

Like roll-down hurricane shutters, this is one of the most expensive systems.

Storm Prep: NONE

Keep in mind that if the aesthetics of shutters is bothering you, but the cost of hurricane windows is nearly out of reach, you can always combine the two. Install impact windows on the front, and possibly the sides of your home. Then protect the window openings that are cannot be seen from the street with shutters.

And don’t underestimate the hassle of installing shutters every time there is a hurricane warning. I frequently go out to do estimates for impact windows on homes that have shutter panels because the homeowner is tired of dealing with installing them.

Finally, if your existing windows are in need of replacement because they are old, I encourage you to retrofit them with impact windows since the cost difference between non-impact windows with hurricane shutters versus only impact windows is marginal.

Once you have narrowed your choices to what type of hurricane window protection system is best for your situation, talk to an expert to help you in your final selection. Depending on which of the above systems best suits you, be it hurricane shutters or impact windows, there are many different style choices, and manufacturers who offer different options. Window contractors are your best experts. How to find one? Ideally, get one who is referred to you by a family member, neighbor or a friend. If they have done a good job for them, this person can provide you with a wealth of knowledge that has been learned over the years. If you must select a contractor you find online, check out their references (at least 5), call them, and go look at the contractor’s work.

First let’s start off by saying that the many different window companies may have their own dedicated installers. Also, there are many specialized products or niches within the replacement window market.  Some companies focus on energy efficient windows and some consumers have a demand for this pricey product as it saves them money and provides a tax credit.  For hurricane impact windows this is tricky issue since a vinyl window will provide better energy efficiency but also much lower design pressures. And the list of different products continues with high design pressures for impact windows on beach front properties (those also often need “turtle glass”), hurricane windows with lower design pressures (& therefore lower cost) for inland properties, Miami-Dade approved hurricane windows for store front operations, etc. 

Benefits and features offered between the different companies will also somewhat overlap and also differ in some areas. Companies try to offer exclusive and different styles, grid options and colors to differentiate themselves from other competitors. Other companies will simply sell you just the window units and you’ll have to find your own installer or install them yourself.

Ask each contractor which you are considering if they will furnish you with a Certificate of Insurance. This will cost them nothing but will greatly add to your peace of mind. A company that won’t do this must be immediately crossed off your list for consideration.  Get this before work begins. When a home owner asks for a Certificate of Insurance, it also sends a subliminal message to the company that you expect a high quality and professional job.

Check each company’s record with the Better Business Bureau online. If a company is very large and has been in business for a very long time, don’t be too scared by a complaint or two; some people will complain as a way of negotiating the final price down and other particular people are just unreasonable and can’t be satisfied. Usually a complaint listed will detail the nature of the consumer problem.

Check with the local Bureau of Consumer Protection or Attorney General’s office for any complaints about contractors you are considering. This is free and will give you a good background history of any legal or informal complaints against a company.

The very most important tip is to ask for at least 10 references of customers who had the same product you are considering installed. Because any company can manage to have a few good references, it is best to call all 10 to get an accurate view of each company’s product and service quality. People who have already invested money with a particular company will usually give you very heartfelt and accurate advice. Consumers are just aching to brag about a good contractor they have found and equally energized to make other homeowners aware of problems they may have had. Consumers are anxious to reward good professionals for a job well done and also, exact some pay back for contractors who don’t live up to their promises.

This time spent in advance of purchasing, will assure you a professional window replacement job.

INSTALLATION
For the window to withstand hurricane conditions, something similar to the 9,000 cycles of positive and negative air pressure they undergo in impact testing, the installation is every bit as important as the quality of the window.  Dave Olmstead, spokesman for PGT Industries in Venice, Florida, agrees that no matter how strong a window is the attachment to the building structure is critical. Olmstead says a window that is 53-inches by 76-inches would have 28 square feet of exposure, and with a wind speed of 146 mph from a category 4 hurricane would result in a load on the window equivalent to 1,958 pounds of pressure. For the window to perform correctly, the load has to be transferred to the building itself, which is done by using suitable anchors to transfer the load from the window or door frame to the rough opening without causing failure. Therefore, the installer needs to be knowledgeable in how to use this system and its different anchoring mechanisms.

Through the construction side of our business, we have had to make major repairs to structures as a result of poor window installations by other contractors – everything from using the wrong sealant to the extreme of installing regular windows instead of the hurricane impact windows the customer paid for. Something as small as the using the wrong sealant can cause significant damage to a home – rotting framing members, structural damage, mold, etc. Since leaks are often inside the walls long before a homeowner notices them inside the house, they are often not detected until there is major damage and then expensive repairs have to be made. This experience is invaluable for our installers. In addition to the installation training we give them, they get to experience firsthand the things that can go wrong with window and door installations and how to prevent them in the work that they do.

SECURITY, HEALTH & FINANCIAL BENEFITS
Benefits from impact-resistant windows extend beyond the storm belt to broader security and environmental concerns. Impact-resistant windows are considered to be security features because they are so difficult to penetrate or separate from their frames that they reduce break-ins, theft, and property damage. On top of physical and financial protection, impact-resistant windows also can preserve mental health. Who hasn’t been disturbed by car alarms, barking dogs or noisy neighbors?

“They do a good job of keeping outside noise outside,” Olmstead says. “With almost every homeowner, that’s the first thing they notice: How quiet the home [became]. Noise abatement is far more important than people realize.”

There are insurance breaks for new homes built with impact resistant windows, and for existing homes remodeled to include the tougher windows and frames. This discount can be as much as 50%. Check with your homeowner’s insurance carrier to see what kind of a discount is available.

THE CODE
The code basically breaks down the method to meet the higher window load requirements in two ways: the window itself, and its installation. It says that the impact resistant window must be able to withstand the “large missile impact” of a 9lb 2×4 hitting the window at a speed of 34 miles per hour without penetrating the window. The glass may break, but the opening must not be penetrated. In addition, the windows and doors  have to withstand 9,000 cycles of positive and negative air pressure, conditions in a real hurricane that could pull a regular windows right out of its frame.

THE WINDOW
To meet the penetration restriction, window manufacturers all use a similar type of impact window glass that’s much like a heavy duty car window. Florida’s best windows and doors manufacturing process is basically the same as it is with most window manufacturers: their design consists of a clear plastic interlayer sandwiched between two panes of glass. Two types of interlayer are used: Polyvinyl butyral (PVB) and SentryGlas Plus (SGP). The SGP is more rigid and less likely to tear than PVB. For that reason, some manufacturers use it in their larger windows, or those windows designed for the highest wind zones.

The glazing system is also an important factor: a silicone sealant that may be strong enough to hold the glass in place in a Zone 3 impact test, but would likely fail in a Zone 4 test, causing the window to fly out of its frame. Windows in the higher test category would instead use something more like a construction adhesive for its glazing system. “The difference, says Kurt Mendez of Florida’s Best, is between Elmer’s glue and super glue.”

Window manufacturers also reinforce the frames in order to meet requirements. Lawson Industries uses a one piece sill plate (this also helps to prevent water leaks into the home) and interlocking meeting rails which ties the sash together when shut. Heavier locks also place a role in meeting impact tests, as they can be critical on certain types of windows, such as casements. For a casement window, the only thing holding the window sash in place under negative pressure is the hinge on one side and the lock on the other.

Today, virtually all of the major window manufacturers make a high-grade, impact-resistant window that has been certified to meet protective standards. The current gold standard in testing is the Miami-Dade County hurricane impact test. Remember, it is your life and your property. Essentially all of Florida, and all the coastal regions of the United States should prepare for possible wind speeds of 110 mph or greater.

Get more information about purchasing impact windows.