Wall Damage from Wall and Window Leaks

On many low rise condo buildings, and most homes, the exterior walls to the second or third floors are constructed using wood framing. I use to be a big fan of wood framing as it offers much better insulation value. The problem with wood framing in exterior walls is the potential for water intrusion into the walls – a HUGE problem for your home or building. One of the big things our company constantly deals with in Florida, is water intrusion into a building, and it can come in buckets (pun intended!) through the roof, exterior wall finishes (such as stucco, siding, etc.) and windows (now you see the connection!).

It is VERY difficult for the average home owner to notice the ‘signs’ of water intrusion until it is too late. Usually, by the time the ‘signs’ appear, there is extensive damage. In a wood frame wall, every component that makes up the inside of the wall – wood wall studs, wood plywood sheathing, sheetrock, insulation – are all absorbent materials, so they HOLD the moisture in place thereby accelerating deterioration. Moisture in building materials can quickly destroy the structural integrity and nurture mold and insect infestation. Repairs for a home start at several thou$ands and can go into tens-of-thousands in very quickly. If you are a condo association, let me put it this way: one of our clients is a very small COA in Boca – 42 units – that we are making these exact repairs (framing, windows, roof, etc.). This association’s cost so far is over $200,000.00 and we are not close to being finished. We have only made absolutely necessary repairs; of the units we have made repairs to, the cost has ranged from $7,000 to $20,000 per condo unit. As I said, it’s hard to find the telltale ‘signs’ for anyone, but for a COA, its especially problematic because the association is having to rely on uninformed condo owners, and worse, renters, to tell you they have a problem.

Window Leak

It is easy to check if the bottom track was installed properly. Remove the sliding window, then take out the ‘frame sill track’ that is located under the sliding window and runs the entire length of the frame. The fasteners/screws will then be exposed. Take out one or two and see if the holes were back-caulked. If not, fix it yourself. Remove all the screws in the bottom track; fill the cavity with a quality caulk or seam sealer, then put the screws back in. When the screw is 1/8” out from being secured to the frame, add a dab of caulk under the head for good measure, and finish tightening. It is also a good idea to add some sealer to the corners and any seams in the frame you can detect. Then wipe off all excess and put the window back together again.

WALLS:
This one can be hard for the layman to understand – how water infiltration can occur thru the outside skin of the building envelope. But it happens much more often than you realize. One first has to understand that water is VERY intrusive. And the possible points of intrusion are many! Any protrusion along the stucco wall that impeds water run-off is a prime candidate to eventually create an opening for water intrusion: windows (if they stick out), window sills, stucco bands, ornamental designs, etc., are all candidates. And barely visible cracks in the stucco that can be created from building settlement are obviously points for water to seep in. Once the water gets behind the stucco, it makes contact with the building substrate (usually plywood) – as I said these are absorbent materials, like a sponge, and when they get wet they wick the moisture throughout (drywall can wick water up to 30”).

Roof Leak - Wall Damage

SIGNS:
For most of these telltale signs to show up, please keep in mind that there has to be enough excess water inside your wall that it is wicking out to the dry side (or in some extreme cases, running out). These signs can be water stains on the ceiling, sheetrock tape joints that have separated, the top of the baseboard has separated from the sheetrock leaving a crack, the sheetrock side ‘return’ to the windows at the bottom is separating from the window sill or there is light mold on the sheetrock in this area, hairline cracks in the outside stucco (often times near an impediment to water runoff such as window sills, stucco bands and other protruding trim).

I recently had one customer who had none of these signs, but by simple good fortune they found they had a serious problem – they inadvertently rubbed their hand against the wall and their wall was so wet inside that that the paint pealed right off the sheetrock. They cut a hole in the sheetrock and found the wall studs to be rotted half way thru. In another project we were working on, I have seen an entire wall, from corner to corner, not have one single wall stud that was not COMPLETELY rotted through. The only thing holding up the roof was the stucco and the side adjoining wall.

If you think you may have water intrusion into your wall, call someone. If you are a condo owner, call your association’s property manager or someone on the board. If you’re a homeowner, call a contractor who specializes in this kind of work. Get someone who is an expert. A lot of contractors will say they can fix water intrusion problems, but unless they have dealt with solving these problems for years, they do not know all the intricacies involved. And as always, with any contractor you hire, call their references.

Hurricane shutters are the most economical, therefore the most popular solution chosen by homeowners. However, hurricane impact windows and doors are also very popular because of the added benefits of convenience, security enhancement, better energy efficiency, sound proofing and its attractiveness over shutters. The least expensive system is plywood or panels; these offer great protection, but take a great deal of time to install.

Your considerations: Cost, appearance, and convenience (this one is often under estimated).

First, understand what it is your protecting: it’s not just the shards of glass from the broken window that are dangerous – having your roof blown off will really get your attention. During a hurricane, the strong wind that blows over your home creates a ‘lift’ effect on your roof. If a window or door opening is blown open during the storm, this creates an additional upward ‘push’ on the roof, thus doubling or tripling the lifting effect. This is how roofs are blown off.

Here are the vitals on your choices for hurricane window protection for your home.

Myth Buster- Window Film & a little info on Impact Windows:

Window film can reduce the sun’s damaging rays into your home and it is promoted to be a theft deterrent. It may also very well reduce the chance for shards of glass to go flying through your home in the event of a hurricane, but do you really think slapping a thin piece of film on your existing windows is going to keep your roof on in the event of a hurricane? By comparison, impact windows are almost three times as thick as regular window glass. Hurricane windows are made up of two layers of glass and sandwiched between these layers of glass is a strong tear resistant interlayer (film) that keeps the glass together in the event it is broken. They are much like the windshield of automobiles.

A key factor in the strength of impact windows is how the glass & interlayer are VERY securely attached to a reinforced frame (both mechanically and thru the use of industrial adhesives) so the impact glass does NOT detached even under extreme pressure. The goal is to establish hurricane window protection for all openings (whether one does this through the use of hurricane shutters or impact windows, or a combination of the two) and keep the openings sealed so as to not cause a change in pressure inside the home thus blowing off the roof. The idea of putting hurricane window film on a regular window with its lightweight frame and expecting it to even remotely resemble a Miami-Dade approved impact window is ridiculous. Yes, it would be better than nothing, but your money would be better spent on plywood.

Plywood Shutters ($2 – $4 / sq. ft.):

A popular and effective choice, installing plywood shutters to fit snugly inside the window or door frame is an efficient and affordable option for homeowners. These shutters were effective even in the highest winds of Hurricane Andrew, and are relatively easy to install. If you are going to use this method, the plywood needs to be 5/8” to 3/4” thick, and since it takes a lot of time to prepare, it should be cut to size way before we have a storm bearing down on us.

Positives:

Most inexpensive of all hurricane protective systems
Strong and can provide excellent protection

Negatives:

Require storage, but can be stacked
Heavy and difficult to handle, hanging may require more than one person
Require the most time to install
Not a safe option for 2 story homes

Storm Prep: 20 – 25 minutes per window (if pre-cut); 5 to 8 hours for an average home

Storm panel hurricane shutters ($5 – $8 / sq. ft.):

Another popular and effective choice, these hurricane shutters are typically steel or aluminum corrugated panels that attach to the walls around windows and doors. There are several mounting methods using either pre-mounted tracks and bolts or just bolts.

Positives:

Most inexpensive of the ‘permanent’ hurricane shutter systems

Strong and can provide excellent protection

Can be installed by a handy DIY.

Negatives:

Require storage, but can be stacked

Can be heavy and difficult to handle, hanging may require more than one person

Time consuming to – other than plywood, this system requires the second most time to install

Have sharp edges – can be dangerous

Not a convenient option for 2 story homes

Storm Prep: 15 – 20 minutes per window; 4 to 6 hours for an average home

Accordion Hurricane Shutters ($15 – $18 / sq. ft.):

Accordion hurricane shutters are attached directly to your home at the window or door opening, folded up when they are not in use and easily unfolded, accordion-style when you need to cover and protect the opening during a storm.

Positives:

Easily deployable by one person when they are needed.

Permanently attached next to the window, don’t require storage.

Some can be locked and may be used as a theft deterrent.

Negatives:

Typically bulky and not attractive. Seriously consider aesthetics before purchasing these.

They have more mechanical parts, so may require more maintenance than other devices.

Storm Prep: 30 minutes for an entire home

Colonial and Bahama Hurricane Shutters ($18 – $28 / sq. ft.):

These are louvered hurricane shutters that attach directly to the wall beside or above the windows.

Positives:

Permanently attached next to, or above the window, don’t require storage.

Easily deployable by one person when they are needed.

Since they are decorative they can beautify the home as well as protect it.

Negatives:

Cannot be used as hurricane protection for doors, so must be combined with another system.

Designs and style may limit their use.

Storm Prep: 30 minutes to an hour for an entire home

Roll-Down Hurricane Shutters ($35 – $55 / sq. ft.):

These hurricane shutters attach permanently above the window in an enclosed box when they are not in use and roll down, either manually with a hand crank or electronically by motor, when you need them.

Positives:

Permanently attached next to, or above the window, don’t require storage.

Easily deployable by one person when they are needed.

Since they can be locked, they make an excellent theft deterrent

Negatives:

One of the most expensive systems.

Motor driven systems require a battery backup so they can be operated during power outages.

Storm Prep: Minimal, easiest of the hurricane shutter systems

Impact Windows ($40 – $55+ / sq. ft.):

Hurricane impact windows can withstand hurricane debris and completely eliminate the need for hurricane shutters. It costs more to retrofit an existing home, but is most cost effective if a homeowner is considering replacing old windows anyway. This is the most value added of the hurricane window protection systems, since impact windows also improve energy efficiency, are an excellent theft deterrent, provide sound deadening from outside noises, as well as give your home hurricane window protection in the event of a storm. Further, adding new impact windows is likely to increase the value of your home, more so than with any of the other hurricane protective systems.

Positives:

Eliminates the need for hurricane shutters

Great for people with second homes since the home is hurricane ready all the time.

Excellent theft deterrent, nearly impossible to break thru the glass to gain entry.

Added value of sound deadening and energy efficiency over regular windows.

Negatives:

Like roll-down hurricane shutters, this is one of the most expensive systems.

Storm Prep: NONE

Keep in mind that if the aesthetics of shutters is bothering you, but the cost of hurricane windows is nearly out of reach, you can always combine the two. Install impact windows on the front, and possibly the sides of your home. Then protect the window openings that are cannot be seen from the street with shutters.

And don’t underestimate the hassle of installing shutters every time there is a hurricane warning. I frequently go out to do estimates for impact windows on homes that have shutter panels because the homeowner is tired of dealing with installing them.

Finally, if your existing windows are in need of replacement because they are old, I encourage you to retrofit them with impact windows since the cost difference between non-impact windows with hurricane shutters versus only impact windows is marginal.

Once you have narrowed your choices to what type of hurricane window protection system is best for your situation, talk to an expert to help you in your final selection. Depending on which of the above systems best suits you, be it hurricane shutters or impact windows, there are many different style choices, and manufacturers who offer different options. Window contractors are your best experts. How to find one? Ideally, get one who is referred to you by a family member, neighbor or a friend. If they have done a good job for them, this person can provide you with a wealth of knowledge that has been learned over the years. If you must select a contractor you find online, check out their references (at least 5), call them, and go look at the contractor’s work.